Show frontpage
Denmark - Land of Islands

Writing about the Danish Isles is writing about a wide stretch of Denmark. The natural beauty of the Jutland Peninsular to the west marks the mainland. Zealand with the capital Copenhagen crowns the east, and in the middle you find Hans Christian Andersen’s home island of Funen.

All the same, these three pillars of Danish geography are not what Danes have in mind when they say ‘The Danish Isles’ – three words uttered with bliss, three mouth-watering words followed by a resounding ‘Ahhh!’ as if savouring the taste of freshly shelled prawns.

No, to us the Danish Isles are the generous number of unspoilt islets strewn throughout the Danish waters. Some are surrounded by the salty sea and high surf, yet others shelter in the mild climate of the inlets.
Most of the islands are so tiny that the most convenient way to visit them is to leave your car in the nearest port town and experience the islands by bicycle. That is what many Danes prefer: to park by the small, sheltered ferry harbours and board the charming ferries with a bicycle and light kit. You will be hard pressed to find a crossing that takes more than two hours. Often it only takes 15 minutes, so getting there is really not half the fun. As with all transport in Denmark, it is soon over and you can embark on more exciting things.

Take for instance the nature around Limfjorden, an inlet that many lose their heart to and with good reason. This, the largest of the Danish inlets, cuts across the Jutland Peninsular like an undulating swatch of blue silk. The largest island in the inlet is Mors, connected to the mainland by bridges across the two sounds, Sallingsund and Vilsund – the views from here must be among the most spectacular in Denmark.

To visit other of the Limfjorden islands takes a few minutes by one of the tiny old ferries. There is Venø where the tender beefsteaks from the free roaming cattle entice travellers from far and wide. And Fur, unique from a geological perspective. Swifts dart in and out of tiny holes at the top of magnificent diatomite cliffs, and under these remarkable nests there is a good chance of finding rare, 50-million-year-old prehistoric insect and sea creature fossils. If the present is more of interest, there are blue mussels and firm oysters in the shallow waters below the cliffs.

Shallow water is child friendly water. Travelling south from Limfjorden towards the German border you find three west coast islands – Mandø, Fanø and Rømø – just south of the world’s largest wind turbine park at Horns Rev. Here, where experienced swimmers ride and challenge the breaking surf, the wild North Sea coast meets with the shallow tidal flats with warm natural paddling pools for the young.

The Wadden Sea stretches for 350 kilometres through German, Dutch and Danish waters and is an important breeding area and habitat for rare species of migrant birds.

Mandø is the smallest of the three islands – an odd little sand bank where you either hitch a tractor ride with a local farmer, purchase a ticket for the makeshift tractor bus – or quite simply take off your shoes and socks and walk! – that is, if you want to enjoy the company of the peaceful islanders, most of whom are cattle.

The somewhat larger islands of Fanø and Rømø are better geared to welcoming visitors. The white sandy beaches are so wide that motor races were held there in the 1920s. Today, they are popular venues for enthusiastic hang-gliders and kite surfers from all over Europe. Nature is unique here – not least when, once in a blue moon, a mighty whale is stranded here adding grand and poetic drama to your holiday.

It would be unfair to write about the Jutland waters without setting sail for the two east coast gems, the islands Læsø and Anholt. The Anholt harbour and captivating desert-like cliffs and beaches have in recent years become favoured summer hangouts for trendy Copenhageners. Here, scores of yachters seek harbour to enjoy the evening sun from the swaying deck while a wealth of fresh local langoustine is washed down with chilled Chardonnay.

The somewhat larger Læsø is one-of-a-kind – and that is the charm of the place. The gastronomy is a chapter of its own. Apart from fresh fish and shellfish, which are landed every day, the island’s honey, sausages, ham and wild forest chanterelles are not to be missed. Læsø is only 25 kilometres at its widest, and even during high season you can still have a whole beach to yourself on the wild northern coast – apart from the cute seals that inhabit the area. This is truly a haven. On the south coast of Læsø, you can explore the Rønnerne nature reserve on horseback and experience wild orchids and rare wading birds on the moist salt marsh.

Bornholm is the only rocky place in the country. The rock-bed island is located in the middle of the Baltic Sea, closer to Sweden and Poland than Denmark and not far from Russia. Bornholm offers a relaxed atmosphere. The local attractions are smoked herring, chalk-white sandy beaches and certifiably more sunshine than anywhere else in Denmark – Bornholm is called ‘The Sunshine Island’, and the characteristic light on the island has always attracted many artists. Today, the island boasts proud traditions within the arts and crafts, especially within ceramics and glassware with open studios for visitors.

The islands of Ærø and Langeland also draw many artists and artist craftspeople. Here, in the archipelago off the south coast of Funen, there is peace and quiet and – more than anywhere else – an air of history. The town of Rudkøbing on Langeland, and not least the town of Ærøskøbing on Ærø, are among the best preserved historic merchant towns in Denmark with small, cosy houses dating back to 1645. But they are no dusty museums – most of the houses are still inhabited, and several of them are open to the public as charming boutiques, cafés or restaurants.

Fossils on Fur. Whales on Fanø. Lobsters on Læsø. Artist colonies on Bornholm. Historical towns on Langeland and Ærø.

The diversity of Danish nature and culture is remarkable – and all to be found within the nation’s approx. 44,000 square kilometres. Many would say that all of Denmark is an inviting, easygoing oasis inhabited by a welcoming people; these traits are probably all the more prevalent on the Danish Isles.