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Open-faced sandwiches

The open sandwiches known as “Smørrebrød” are a world-famous Danish national delicacy, the preparation of which adheres to time-honoured traditions. However, increasingly in Danish luncheonettes, smørrebrød excesses are a thing of the past. The traditional smørrebrød has shaped up for healthy eating: the rye bread base contains more fibre, the butter is spread thinner and the toppings are no longer buried in a sea of mayonnaise and tartare sauce.
Some places you can even order tiny pieces, so you can taste many different types of toppings… They are called “Smushi”.

The “Victor Borge” is an elegant composition of salmon, prawns, lumpfish caviar and lime, while the statesman’s namesake “Uffe Ellemann Jensen” is for devotees of the Danish meatball. For centuries, famous Danes have patronised the “Doyenne of smørrebrød”, Ida Davidsen, at her restaurant in Copenhagen. And if they had a favourite smørrebrød, this was then named in their honour. With around 300 smørrebrød variants this establishment can tempt guests with the longest sandwich list in the world!
One of the oldest variants on the sandwich list is “Dyrlægens Natmad” – which goes something like “The Veterinarian’s Nite-Bite”. This was invented in the 1880s in the time of Ida Davidsen’s great-grandfather, Oskar Davidsen, who ran the dynasty’s first establishment. The name of this singular variant derives from a certain vet, who insisted nightly on a piece of smørrebrød piled with liver pâté, dripping, beef jelly, salt meat and onion rings. The latest offering chez Ida Davidsen is a slice with Rød Aalborg, where this famous schnapps, served in an eggshell and perched on raw salmon and lumpfish caviar, is used as a dressing.
There are several good smørrebrød restaurants in Copenhagen, such as “Slotskælderen hos Gitte Kik”. This establishment opened in 1797 when it housed a distillery. In 1910 the premises were acquired by the Kik family. The new owners felt that the spirits saw their patrons off rather too quickly – and so they decided to put food on the tables too. Today it is the fifth generation of the Kik family who spreads the butter on the bread in this legendary restaurant. One variant among all the many high-rise smørrebrød that really pulls in the crowds features mustard-glazed rump steak and potato salad.
For those who prefer to enjoy their smørrebrød picnic-style in the countryside rather than at a restaurant table, most good butchers will prepare a selection to order. But even if you do discover a personal favourite and no matter how many times you get the butcher to prepare it for you, you can’t count on having it named after you.

Mariette Tiedeman
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