When the table is set for the traditional banquet-style lunch (“frokostbord”) there’s no question about where to start – national etiquette prescribes herring first. And no matter the variant, they are always washed down with lashings of lager and Danish schnapps. Herring has a long tradition on Danish territory. In the old days, cured herring served with barley or wheat slops was everyday fare on Bornholm – and both for lunch and supper at that! Because back then herring fishing was the main occupation on the Baltic islands. But on festive occasions, the special treat was “kryddersild” – a speciality pickled herring which to this day is synonymous with Bornholm and especially the nearby island of Christiansø.

In the old days every self-respecting matriarch on Christiansø had her own recipe for pickled herring.
The recipes passed from mother to daughter and to this day it is from tradition-steeped recipes such as these that the island's two herring houses, Ruths Kryddersild and Christiansøsild, prepare the herring. The family recipes are top secret, and the pickled herrings from the two establishments differ enormously – while premium quality is common to both. Approach Ruths Kryddersild and you will be enveloped in a wonderful spicy, yuletide aroma. This is because all the spices used for pickling the herring are ground on the premises. At the herring house, visitors can follow the processes and sample and purchase the herring.

As befits an authentic Bornholm restaurant, De 5 Stauerne naturally lays on a huge herring spread with no fewer than 14 different herring specialities. Because, of course, there are many other types of herring besides the famous aromatic “kryddersild”. The buffet boasts classics such as herring in curry sauce, tomato sauce and marinated herring, along with cured fried herring – a typical Bornholm dish. The cured herring is coated in rye flour, crisply pan-fried and served hot with pickled beetroot, mustard and onion. And then there are the rollmops – salted herring fillets wrapped around chopped onions and spices and then steamed in a strong vinegary marinade.

But herring is also allowed to fly in the face of tradition in restaurants across the country. At De 5 Stauerne you can even sample root-vegetable herring, dill herring, garlic herring – why, even passion-fruit herring! And at Sortebro Kro the innkeeper serves saffron herring and fennel herring. In fact when it comes to dressing herring there are no limits to how saucy it can get. Because as the chefs have it: You can’t go wrong with herring: it tastes good almost no matter how you flavour it